時尚守門人Anna Wintour日前被街拍時,身上穿的洋裝來自 Gucci 最新《ARIA》系列。這件帶著一點點復古印花的長洋裝真的就是她的菜,單穿也蠻好看的。
既然說到她,就來聊一聊最近Condé Nast 的動盪好了。在集團實施區域分管匯報的策略之下,法國版、德國版、中國版、印度版、日本版、西班牙版與俄羅斯版的VOGUE總編輯都相繼離職,一方面覺得很可惜,心目中的一代人才都相繼離開,另一方面又覺得可能是開啟另一個新章節的機會。
紙媒的式微是不可逆的趨勢了,光想想自己還有沒有在買紙本雜誌、或是每個月購買雜誌的數量開始減少就感覺得到。但這可能只是我這一輩的人的感嘆,因為雜誌紙本乘載的,除了實質的時尚資訊與大片之外,還有那一份年輕時對時尚嚮往的回憶情感;這份念舊,讓我對於紙本的感情是難以取代的。
但對於年輕一輩的讀者來說,他們從小就是數位時代,一直接受的就是快速、線上的數位資訊,要這一些讀者改變他們習慣的接收資訊模式,改為購買、閱讀紙本,或許就和要我輩全改為數位一樣,中間會有些隔閡。
一如購買CD一樣,依然買CD、翻閱歌詞本的聽眾仍然有,但數量已是相對少數;數位音樂已成為大勢所趨,音樂的本質沒有調整,依然能被傳播出去,只是形式上的調整。
因應紙媒銷售的暴跌,做系統性的調整勢在必得,老一輩的總編輯,他們歷練的美感無庸置疑,但能否吻合數位時代的腳步、能否有聲量、能否再引起共鳴,都必須再思考,用數位時代裡成長的新一輩成為編輯,在頻率上可能更能打動新一代的讀者。(當然整體集團內部有什麼運籌帷幄的調整、成本節省、或者棄誰保誰的策略,就非外人能道了)
當主流已經不再主流,或者說已沒有獨領風潮的主流,風格就成為吸引讀者最重要的磁場;最壞的時代同時就是最好的時代,反正怎麼樣銷量就是那樣,放手去做、放膽去表現才是重點。
啊,但我還是會去買紙本雜誌的,「翻閱」雜誌這件事,對我來說就是接受時尚的儀式感,是怎麼在螢幕上滑,都覺得少一味的老派固執(笑
#gucci
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Voices of Photography 攝影之聲
Issue 24 : 攝影書作為方法II
Photobook As Method II
書——作為一種創作物——已成為當代攝影藝術領域獨領風騷的話題。猶記2011年在《攝影之聲》創刊號中,我們提到方興未艾的個人出版運動,數年過去,這股逆數位化的影像出版浪潮奔流未止,並在世界各地擴散,即使紙本出版環境在本世紀被認為進入了寒冬期,火熱的攝影書潮卻一點也沒有退燒的跡象。如今,國際間小型獨立出版絡繹不絕地出現、藝術書展市集也遍地開花,「#攝影書」佔據著各個攝影節、博覽會與創作獎項的主要位置,成為攝影發展歷程裡前所未有的獨特地景,也重新定位了「#製書」在視覺藝術中的角色和概念。
我們正在經歷攝影書的黃金年代,而《攝影之聲》也持續關注台灣的影像閱讀與出版,並自創刊以來,每兩年製作一次攝影書專題,記錄台灣的攝影出版形貌,作為影像文化的觀察報告。這次,我們再度公開徵集自2016年以來的台灣攝影出版品,收到了逾百本各式各樣的讀物,數量比往年增加,編輯室也因此呈現著歷經書本大轟炸的狀態。在本期雜誌中,我們將一一介紹許多有趣的出版品,並邀請設計師何佳興、藝評人徐文瑞和張世倫參與對話討論,針對 #台灣攝影出版 現況進行評論與回應。
另外,我們還舉辦攝影書的 #國際紙上派對,邀集多位評論人、出版人、收藏者等來自世界各地的攝影專業讀者——飯澤耕太郎、朴智洙、言由、李錦麗、Daniel Boetker-Smith、Dieter Neubert和Larissa Leclair,與大家一起分享他們近期最喜愛的攝影讀本;當然,我們也沒忘了和大家一起去逛逛熱絡的國際 #藝術書展,感受此刻正在全球爆發的製本風潮與書展氣氛。同時,我們也新開啟「攝影書製作現場」系列,首集介紹在紐約從事獨立出版的 #SessionPress 攝影書企畫項目,其後將陸續從攝影書的編輯設計、印刷工法乃至品牌經營流通等環節,推出線上專業工作者的訪談,敬請期待。在「論影像」專欄,則挖掘了出版於1895年台灣受日本殖民統治開端之際、由英國人George U. Price拍攝的《#北福爾摩沙的回憶》(Reminiscences of North Formosa),這是目前所知最早以「台灣/福爾摩沙」為名出版流通的攝影輯冊,在精煉的影像中,藉北台灣的茶業生態,書寫著面對不明未來的島嶼紀事;除了張世倫對這份珍貴影像史料的精彩分析,我們也將全書重新編輯作為附錄別冊,使讀者能一探其貌。
在Artist’s Showcase單元中,我們特別介紹日本藝術家 #栁美和,刊載她的攝影新作並回看她自1990年代以來的創作歷程。此外,也製作了已故攝影家 #深瀨昌久 的專題,由深瀨昌久文獻庫總監Tomo Kosuga執筆,引介深瀨戲劇性的攝影人生。我們並紀念今年逝世的中國出版人殷德儉先生,感懷他在攝影出版上的投入奉獻。
感謝本期與我們分享書本的所有藝術家。《攝影之聲》正式進入第七年,今年我們再次獲得了金鼎獎人文藝術雜誌獎的肯定,並仍在影像出版的路途上努力邁進,謝謝所有親愛的讀者與我們比肩同行。
● 購書 Order | http://bit.ly/vop-24
As a form of creativity, books have become the single most important topic in the field of contemporary photography. Looking back, we first spoke about the self-publishing movement that was just unfolding in the inaugural issue of Voices of Photography in 2011. Several years later, this publishing wave has been raging and leaving its mark all around the world. Even though paperback publishing is thought to have entered its dying phase in this century, the burning flames of the photobook wave shows no signs of letting up. Nowadays, small international independent publishers have sprung up all over the world and art book fairs have bloomed. Photobooks are now the centerpiece of photography festivals, expos and creative competitions, becoming a special sight unique to this journey of development of photography and redefining the role and concept of “book-making”.
This is the golden age of photobooks. We have been watching closely the reading and publishing of imagery in Taiwan and since our inaugural issue, we have done photobook features every two years, keeping a record of the photography publishing landscape in Taiwan as an observation of image culture. This time, we had put out another open call for Taiwanese photography publications from 2016. We received more than a hundred contributions, a huge jump in numbers from before, flooding our editors’ room. In this issue, we are featuring many interesting publications, and have also invited designer Chia-Hsing Ho and art critics Manray Hsu and Shih-Lun Chang for a dialogue to discuss the current developments in regards to Taiwan’s photography publications.
In addition, we are throwing an international photography party on paper as we bring together critics, publishers and collectors from all over the world – Kotaro Iizawa, Jisoo Park, Yanyou Di Yuan, Gwen Lee, Daniel Boetker-Smith, Dieter Neubert and Larissa Leclair – to share their recent favorites in photography publications. Of course, we have not forgotten to bring our readers on a trip to boisterous international art book fairs for a real feel of the book-making trend that is exploding across the world, as well as soak in the atmosphere at the book fairs. At the same time, we are introducing a new “Photobook Making Case Study” series and in the first installment, we are featuring photobook projects from Session Press, an independent publisher based in New York. Subsequently, we will introduce the different aspects of photography publication such as the editorial designing of photobooks, printing methods, and even branding and supply chain management. Do also look forward to interviews with professionals in the industry in future issues. In “On Images”, we unearthed “Reminiscences of North Formosa”, a photobook authored by Englishman George U. Price, published in 1895, just as Taiwan came under Japanese rule. This is the earliest known photobook using the name “Taiwan/Formosa” and which was published and circulated. The slick images set against the background of Taiwan’s tea industry chronicle the happenings on this island facing an uncertain future. Apart from Shih-Lun Chang’s impressive analysis of this precious historical imagery data, we have also re-compiled the entire book and included it in this issue as a supplement volume for our readers.
In this issue’s “Artist Showcase”, we are introducing new photography works by Japanese artist Miwa Yanagi while looking back at her creative journey since the 1990s. We also have a special feature on the late photographer Masahisa Fukase’s dramatic life in photography, penned by Tomo Kosuga, Director of the Masahisa Fukase Archives. In addition, we pay tribute to the late Chinese publisher De-Jian Yin, who passed away earlier this year, as we reflect on his dedication to the publication of photography.
We would like to express our gratitude to all the artists who have shared their works with us for this issue. As VOP enters its seventh year, we are honored to be awarded the Golden Tripod Award (Humanities and Arts Award in the Magazines Categories) again as we continue pushing forward on this road of image publication. A big thank you to all our readers out there who have been marching alongside us!
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Voices of Photography 攝影之聲
www.vopmagazine.com